'So, when are you going back to the UK?'

This, dear readers, is one particular question that I am getting rather tired of answering. Why? Because I simply DON'T KNOW. The summer has arrived, and when the summer arrives, there are several things that I always do: I consume even more gelato than usual, I like to go to the beach and, perhaps most importantly, I travel home to the UK for a few weeks to see family, friends and generally catch up on all things Britain (yes, this includes eating pork pie, watching ridiculous amounts of Poirot re-runs and reading gossip magazines-a plenty). So why haven't I booked my flight? Why aren't I already getting my jumpers and jeans ready to put in my suitcase? (yes, that was a dig at UK weather...my bad). I haven't done any of this because: I don't have a PASSPORT. Yes, I too, along with thousands of other disgruntled Brits, have been affected by the big passport backlog. A simple passport renewal which was supposed to take four weeks, has now taken almost seven and I am starting to get, well, somewhat MIFFED.

Bless all of the concerned Italians, who say things like: Can't you use your carta d'identità? (no, it isn't valid for overseas travel). Can't you call the British ambassador or some other official here in Italy? (no, because all of the passport business is now done directly in the UK, not here in Europe as it was done in previous years via a hub in France, if I'm not mistaken) and my favourite? Do you not know anyone in the passport office? Does your dad know anyone? Can't you call in some sort of favour? No, dearest Italian friends, I cannot, for the UK bureaucratic system (unlike the Italian one...) doesn't really work like that. I'm then met with a load of blank faces, because people can't quite get their heads around it all. But...it's the UK! They say, gesticulating wildly. You are all so organised and efficient and proper! Indeed, UK, aren't we just? Aren't we JUST?!

So here I am. Sat in my hot apartment, wasting all sorts of time checking the 'passport tracking system' online. I even called them, twice, and despite the fact that I was spoken to by a VERY polite Irish man (whose name I didn't quite catch because, typically, I live in a place with atrocious phone signal) who told me that I was UNBELIEVABLY patient (yes, yes I am. For now) I still know NOTHING. NIENTE. NICHTS.

My application is, and probably still will be, 'in progress' for the foreseeable future (Yes yes, aren't I just a negative Nancy. Well, can you blame me?) That is, unless some nice, sympathetic person reading this knows someone who works for the UK passport office...

No, I don't want four thanks...just one will do...

Hello April!

Well can you believe it. It's actually April now. A whole week into April! (Don't worry, not all of this post will be in short sharp sentences which express my disbelief at how quickly time is passing by). Soon, the Spring will be in full flow (it's got off to a pretty good start) and then of course, those long, balmy days of summer will arrive. This (pasty) Brit absolutely can't wait. There comes a point when getting all snuggled up in comfy warm jumpers, drinking hot chocolate and enjoying hearty soups gets a bit, well, old. For the last month or two I have been impatiently waiting for warmer days where I can switch to a light jacket and enjoy daylight until 7pm.

Two Sundays ago, myself and my man headed to Termoli, which is a lovely resort town in Molise; just north of the region of Puglia. In the Summer it's packed with people and a hefty dose of international tourists too, who can't get enough of the gorgeous beaches, lively bars and seafood restaurants. The well-restored historical part of town is the perfect place to have a nice little stroll (whether it's summer or winter), and this is exactly what we did that Sunday afternoon; ice cream in hand of course. We weren't the only ones who had this idea however, as the town was absolutely packed with people. It seems as though I'm not the only one who is craving that Spring feeling! Here are a few photos that I took (minus the hoards of people of course). Isn't the sea so beautifully calm?

Have a great week! :D

Caves, Culture and Cuisine: Marvellous Matera

Last Saturday lunchtime, following a morning of absolute CHAOS teaching a group of young children in a local primary school, myself and my wonderful man made a break for it, and headed away from our little town for the weekend. Our destination? One of the oldest towns in Italy: Matera.

Matera is famous for its stone houses, or 'sassi', that are built into the rock face and have been inhabited for thousands of years. While the town has now become a glittering gem of the region of Basilicata, it wasn't always this way. The living conditions in these houses were cramped and dire, as 10 or 11 people (there were around 20,000 in total in the sassi) would usually live a small 'house' (which was more like a cave) and share their living space with animals. They had no heat or sanitation, and if that situation wasn't bad enough, they also used to conserve the animal excrement to use as fuel. Pongy or what??

 You may be thinking that, OK, hundreds of years ago this may have been a rather 'normal' situation for poor and working class citizens, but unbelievably, this was the situation in the 1930s and 1940s. This extreme poverty here was finally brought to light during this period, and Matera and its sassi became a huge embarrassment for Italy. In the 1950s a relocation programme was put into action, with sassi-dwellers being moved to newer, less dirty and disease-ridden parts of town. For a long time the caves remained abandoned, but in the 80s, a revival truly began, as the stone houses were bought, and re-modelled into cool cafes, bars, restaurants and B&Bs. In fact, in 1993 the town of Matera actually became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Now if that isn't an impressive turnaround, I don't know what is!

OK, history lesson ends here! Myself and my man were gobsmacked at the former living conditions in the sassi, and paid a few euros to enter one that had been decked out in 1930s style- fake horse and all (Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario). We listened to a guide talk about the dwelling, and made several appalled expressions at some of the animal excrement comments that were mentioned.

See that room at the back? Yep, that was where the smelly stuff was kept...

But what impressed us the most, was the sheer beauty of these sassi; looking out over the rock face at all of these small caves, especially when they were lit up at night, was just incredible. There were plenty of viewpoints to stop at, as we explored the winding streets and passageways of this historic town, so we managed to get plenty of great photos.

Our B&B was called Alle Malve and was located on Via Bruno Buozzi, right in the centre of the sassi. The owner was helpful and accommodating, as she gave us an easy to follow map and, the following day, a lovely breakfast of homemade cake and biscuits, as well as the standard coffee and croissant. Despite being located in an actual stone cave, the bedroom wasn't at all humid; in fact, it was lovely and warm.

On Saturday night we had hoped to eat at local restaurant 'Il Pico', which my lovely friend Ali (http://cilentofairytales.blogspot.it/) had recommended to me after she and her hubby had dined there during their stay in Matera. However, we couldn't get in as it was full, so instead we headed to 'Soul Kitchen'; a wonderful little place located in one of the sassi, where you can enjoy local dishes and very good service. We tucked into a chef's speciality plate of antipasti, which included local burrata cheese, radish and mushroom salad and a strange (but absolutely delicious) baked ricotta dish. We then followed it with a primo of pasta with sausage and mushrooms. The wine was also local, and of good quality, as we didn't suffer from any form of headache the next day!

Delicious anipasti

On Sunday morning we went for another stroll around the town, and also checked out the Museo d'arte Contemporanea and the Chiesa di San Pietro, before stopping for a very tasty coffee at Kiev Cafe on Via Bruno Buozzi.

Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso

Our trip to Matera, albeit brief, was simply fantastic. What an incredible place, and only about 2 hours from where we are in the province of Foggia. As well as the delicious food, warm hospitality and unbelievable history, this is also the place where Mel Gibson shot his film The Passion of the Christ. If it's good enough for him....

Perfect Puglia

Well, would you look at that...it's now March! Doesn't time fly? And, as per usual (oh dear!) this Brit is way behind on her blogging...

A couple of weekends ago, it seemed as though Spring had already sprung here in Puglia. The sun was out, the sunglasses were on, and the thick coats were off. Myself and my man were incredibly lucky, as we had chosen this particular weekend to go on a little trip down to the beautiful Baroque city of Lecce (often named the 'Florence of the South', and it's easy to see why). We were blinded by the sun all the way down and even OPENED up the windows to let in some air, as the car was getting pretty hot. In FEBRUARY. Anyway, we had chosen to say at the Risorgimento Resort in the city centre; a rather chic five star hotel. And before you start thinking that I have rather extravagant tastes in accommodation , I actually stumbled across this place on Booking.com back in December, and snapped up a great price for that weekend. Myself and the Italian were very impressed, even if the staff weren't the friendliest bunch.

comfiest. bed. ever.

From the Pasticceria 'Natale'. I simply URGE you to go there.

We relaxed, drank coffee, ate delicious cakes and explored the city; in short, we had a wonderful (albeit brief) time in Lecce. Check out my recent article on charmingitaly.com if you want to know a bit more about lovely Lecce: http://www.charmingitaly.com/article/luxurious-weekends-in-lecce.

When Sunday rolled around, and we (very reluctantly) rolled out of what may be the biggest, most comfortable bed I have ever slept in, we said goodbye to Lecce and headed towards the seaside town of Polignano al Mare.

A visit to this little town, which is located right on the Adriatic sea in the province of Bari, is an absolute must for anyone who has the pleasure of visiting Puglia. Not only is is packed full of history, as it has been around since prehistoric times, but it is also home to cute little shops, restaurants and pavement cafes. Make sure you take time to wander around the windy little streets and read all the arty little messages that have been painted into the stone.

Next weekend we will be heading down to Matera. It is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, and home to the famous 'sassi' (stone houses). Roll on Saturday!

The Dolomites Bike Tour (or: why it's always good to have padded cycling shorts)

The 15th to the 21st of September 2013...I don't think I will ever forget this week.

Partly because I spent almost every day in some not very flattering cycling shorts, and partly because it was a week of firsts: first bike tour, first look at the stunning Dolomites and Lake Garda and, funnily enough, the first time that I ate swordfish (which, incidentally, was very yummy indeed).

Instead of waffling on with a day by day account of all the wonderful things we did (there were many), for all of you out there with a slightly smaller attention span/who get bored reading big chunks of text (I am a fully fledged member of both groups of people), I will present to you my top ten tour moments. Because everyone loves a good top ten.

1. First and foremost, I have to mention the safety issue. The majority of the Dolomites tour was on lovely smooth cycle paths. Any road riding was on minor roads and I found the drivers all the be very considerate indeed. (A slight difference from down here in the South..ahem)
2. Meeting new people and having an endless number of giggles. What better way to get to know people than over a whole load of great food, great wine and in the presence of some super stunning locations.
3. Getting the chance to discover some very 'off the beaten track' places, thanks to the guide and her extensive research. My highlight? A rustic little agriturismo near Lake Garda, nestled up in the mountains. I may not have enjoyed the windy road up (for someone who gets travel sick it's not the best way to start a meal) but the food and hospitality made up for it big time. Pasta with olives, rabbit, creme caramel...triple yum. 
4. Visiting Merano. I had heard a lot of great things about this place so was eager to see it for myself. The verdict? A very charming place with some absolutely gorgeous views. Plus a restaurant that serves simply the best mushroom soup I have EVER tasted. Ever.
5. Exploring the region of Alto Adige in general. As you enter this part of Italy you'll notice the big German language influence. I found it to be a perfect mix of the Germanic and the Italian...respect and punctuality coupled with Italian flair. As I graduate of German now living in Italy, I absolutely loved it.
6.  The fact that we stayed in a castle. Located near Missiano, the Scloss Hotel Korb, perched high up on a hill, was simply amazing (and the location of the swordfish eating). It was also home to a ENORMOUS yet ridiculously timid dog.
7. Riding through apple orchards. We cycled through so many of them, each one more beautiful and fragrant than the next. We also had a cheeky stop at an apple stand for some fresh juice and calorific strudel.
8. Tasting. And no, I don't mean wine tasting (even though we did that too), but olive oil tasting. I learnt how it is made and how to taste it 'correctly' (oh yes, there is a particular method.)
9. Experiencing an incredible sense of peace and tranquillity. A breathtakingly beautiful region, a belly full of delicious delights and the gentle pedalling as I cruised through those apple orchards... words can't describe it.
10. Realising that yes, I can manage a fairly hefty (but by no means overwhelming) amount of kilometres each day. As a total bike tour virgin, this is a good sign for all of you non-bikers out there. If I can do it...
11. Yes, I know I said top ten but I just had to add this one in. Number 11? Spotting the Orient Express when I was in Verona on the way back! Ah, I'm definitely my dad's daughter...

Garda

We actually learnt about the wine before we drank it...

Just chilling in my castle...

Views near Merano

Aapple stand stop. Funnily enough, I'm the one at the back...

If only this had been MY train...sigh...

And now for the important deets...

I went with the lovely Kara and her tour company Kara Mia Italian Adventures. Check out her website for details on her tours (she does Piedmont and Tuscany trips too) at http://karamiaitalianadventures.com/ or give her a call and let her explain her bike tour philosophy to you.

The Dolomites Bike Tour (or: why it's always good to have padded cycling shorts)

The 15th to the 21st of September 2013...I don't think I will ever forget this week.

Partly because I spent almost every day in some not very flattering cycling shorts, and partly because it was a week of firsts: first bike tour, first look at the stunning Dolomites and Lake Garda and, funnily enough, the first time that I ate swordfish (which, incidentally, was very yummy indeed).

Instead of waffling on with a day by day account of all the wonderful things we did (there were many), for all of you out there with a slightly smaller attention span/who get bored reading big chunks of text (I am a fully fledged member of both groups of people), I will present to you my top ten tour moments. Because everyone loves a good top ten.

1. First and foremost, I have to mention the safety issue. The majority of the Dolomites tour was on lovely smooth cycle paths. Any road riding was on minor roads and I found the drivers all the be very considerate indeed. (A slight difference from down here in the South..ahem)
2. Meeting new people and having an endless number of giggles. What better way to get to know people than over a whole load of great food, great wine and in the presence of some super stunning locations.
3. Getting the chance to discover some very 'off the beaten track' places, thanks to the guide and her extensive research. My highlight? A rustic little agriturismo near Lake Garda, nestled up in the mountains. I may not have enjoyed the windy road up (for someone who gets travel sick it's not the best way to start a meal) but the food and hospitality made up for it big time. Pasta with olives, rabbit, creme caramel...triple yum. 
4. Visiting Merano. I had heard a lot of great things about this place so was eager to see it for myself. The verdict? A very charming place with some absolutely gorgeous views. Plus a restaurant that serves simply the best mushroom soup I have EVER tasted. Ever.
5. Exploring the region of Alto Adige in general. As you enter this part of Italy you'll notice the big German language influence. I found it to be a perfect mix of the Germanic and the Italian...respect and punctuality coupled with Italian flair. As I graduate of German now living in Italy, I absolutely loved it.
6.  The fact that we stayed in a castle. Located near Missiano, the Scloss Hotel Korb, perched high up on a hill, was simply amazing (and the location of the swordfish eating). It was also home to a ENORMOUS yet ridiculously timid dog.
7. Riding through apple orchards. We cycled through so many of them, each one more beautiful and fragrant than the next. We also had a cheeky stop at an apple stand for some fresh juice and calorific strudel.
8. Tasting. And no, I don't mean wine tasting (even though we did that too), but olive oil tasting. I learnt how it is made and how to taste it 'correctly' (oh yes, there is a particular method.)
9. Experiencing an incredible sense of peace and tranquillity. A breathtakingly beautiful region, a belly full of delicious delights and the gentle pedalling as I cruised through those apple orchards... words can't describe it.
10. Realising that yes, I can manage a fairly hefty (but by no means overwhelming) amount of kilometres each day. As a total bike tour virgin, this is a good sign for all of you non-bikers out there. If I can do it...
11. Yes, I know I said top ten but I just had to add this one in. Number 11? Spotting the Orient Express when I was in Verona on the way back! Ah, I'm definitely my dad's daughter...

If only this had been MY train...sigh...

And now for the important deets...

I went with the lovely Kara and her tour company Kara Mia Italian Adventures. Check out her website for details on her tours (she does Piedmont and Tuscany trips too) at http://karamiaitalianadventures.com/ or give her a call and let her explain her bike tour philosophy to you.

The wanderer returns...(Tales of Tuscany)

You may have been wondering where your (fairly) regular dose of sunshine and tomatoes has got to recently. Well, dear readers, I will tell you: I have been galavanting around Italy. That’s right. Whether by plane, train, automobile or even bike, I have been discovering a lot more about this beautiful land in which I live. From a gorgeous bed and breakfast in Bari to the towers of Tuscany’s San Gimignano and the breathtakingly beautiful Dolomites, in these past few weeks I have seen and experienced so much. And I intend to tell you all about it...starting with my little road trip up to southern Tuscany.

My good friend and I simply got into her car, got hold of a couple of maps and headed in the direction of Tuscany. Why? Because we could. I had always wanted to see more of Tuscany, after having visited Florence about a year ago. I was fairly eager to escape Puglia's arid landscape for a while and immerse myself in the green-ness of Chianti and the Val d'Orcia. When we arrived, about 5 hours and several coffee stops later, the luscious landsape welcomed us with open arms. Our bed and breakfast (www.albergosangallo.it), located near the beautiful medieval hill town of Montepulicano (in the province of Siena) was simple, clean and very affordable, and offered not only amazing views but also some absolutely delicious home made croissants and cakes for breakfast. From here, we went on to climb Montepulciano's hefty slopes and discovered its yummy pici pasta. I also had a cheeky glass of Vino Nobile, which is made from the local grape. 

Montepulciano

Montepulciano

The next day, after a nice big breakfast (which, needless to say, consisted mainly of cake) we paid a visit to the famous 'town of beautiful towers', or to use its actual name: San Gimignano. This medieval town, similarly to Montepulciano and many other towns in Tuscany, is perched on a hill. What makes it different however, is the fact that it is home to several large towers. There used to be around 70 of the things, but now only 14 remain. San Gimignano is also famous for its saffron, and you can even get saffron ice cream here! We also stopped off at Siena, which is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and marvelled at the Duomo and the grand Piazza del Campo, which is where the Siena Palio horse race is held every year. Siena is one of those wonderful cities, that is neither too big nor too small, and is steeped in medieval history. It's perfect to just wander round, stopping now and again for a coffee or a gelato. Nobody seems to be rushing about here.

San Gimignano

Landscape surrounding San Gimignano

Piazza del Campo Siena

Duomo Siena

 Our final stop was in the small town of Pienza, which is famous mainly for its Pecorino cheese. This is a lovely place to visit, especially if you want to pick up some delicious wine, cheese or other homemade products such as chutney, jam and biscuits. Easy parking, friendly people and lots of charming hanging baskets all over the place. 

Pecorino cheese in Pienza

Picturesque countryside surrounding Pienza

Our little trip around Tuscany could have lasted for at least another couple of weeks; there is so much to see here. Even just gazing out over the Tuscan landscape fills you with a deep sense of peace and tranquility. My advice would be to do it all by car; it's the best way to explore the hidden gems that this region has to offer. Parking is fairly easy, even in Siena, and many small bed and breakfasts are located just outside the towns; don't miss them by heading straight into the centre. 

Has anyone else had the chance to explore Tuscany? Where are your favourite spots?